People and Turtles

Do you know what really irritates me? People that don't know how to F'n handle animals and in this case turtles. I had a dumb ass boyfriend that wanted to play with my turtles. He wanted to put my box turtle in the water with my red eared sliders to see if it would swim. WOW, are you serious? I was like, "Get the hell away from my turtles!" What an idiot. And then he was always trying to get the turtles to race. I was like, "This isn't a cartoon. Leave them alone." Who acts like that. Turtles aren't normal pets. You dont take them out of their cage to pet them and you sure don't take them on walks. He would always say, "If you don't play with them, then they just become like fish." I was like, "Really? that's pretty much what they are! They are to be watched, bathed and let free in the backyard(carefully watched) every once and a while." You're not suppose to play with turtles. I don't even know how you would do that. You give them fish and/or crickets to keep them busy, and definately a larg enough area to get exercise in. People are so oblivious to animals needs sometimes and how to act around animals. Don't even get me started on how he acted with my dog. I broke up with him on the spot after that, dumb ass. Kids should be brought up to learn how to interact with animals and treat them respectively. I think that is very important in the parenting process. And people that are just plan stupid and don't know how to deal with animals and reptiles, well maybe there should be a school for you. GET WITH THE PICTURE! Animals have feelings too!

Keeping your turtle healthy

More than 85% of all diseases encountered in turtles are the result of either poor breeding or poor dietary management, sometimes both together. Dirty water or incorrect temperature control is often another reason for poor health or infections in turtles. Clean water and the correct temperature can be provided at low cost from readily obtainable accessories which can be purchased at any pet or aquatic stores.

Diseases resulting from an incorrect diet are also extremely common, and are a major cause of early death. If a correctly balanced diet is provided, then turtles should live to a good old age.

Turtles can get sick like any other animal, and if they do, you should seek veterinary advice at once. Most conditions can be treated successfully if caught early enough.

The following guide to some of the more common health problems of captive turtles is provided to help you identify a potentially sick animal in need of further investigation and possible treatment. It is not intended as a ''Do-it-yourself'' guide to treatment. All medical treatment should be carried out under qualified veterinary direction.

There are also some general guidelines for treating and nursing sick turtles:

Sick turtles should be kept warm. The best temperature range in most cases is between 80-86 degrees Fahrenheit. At these temperatures the animal's own immune system is able to function at its highest. It is more important to maintain hydration than to worry about force feeding solid foods. Dehydrated turtles are at serious risk from renal complications. Even emaciated animals require rehydration and a restoration of renal function before they require force feeding. A sick turtle may not be able to swim properly, they can even drown. Keep water levels low and make sure that the turtle can leave the water easily if it wishes to.

If an infectious disease is suspected, remove the the animal from the tank immediately and isolate it. Keep a spare tank on hand for this purpose in case it is ever required.

The key to the successful treatment of reptiles is accurate diagnosis followed by appropriate medication given from the care of a professional veterinarian.

Basic guide to common diseases

Symptoms:
Swollen or puffy eyes, usually closed. Possible white discharge. Skin may appear red and raw. There may be edema.
Probable cause:
Bacterial infection of eyes often consequent upon inadequate filtration of water. Investigate environment. Incorrect temperatures can also be responsible for this sort of symptom.
Treatment:
Topical antibiotics for eyes (non-soluble ointment base) if bacterial infection present. Adjust hygiene and environment if incorrect.

Symptoms:
Lesions or plaque-like furry build-up of necrotic matter in the mouth. Possible refusal to feed, and eyes may also be swollen.
Probable cause:
Bacterial infection of the mouth usually implicating Gram-negative organisms. Contagious to other specimens.
Treatment:
A serious condition requiring prompt treatment. The mouth should be cleaned using povidone-iodine solution several times per day with physical removal of necrotic tissue. Topical antibiotics of known efficacy against Gram-negative organisms may also be advised. Handle affected animals with care and isolate immediately. This condition usually responds well if recognized in good time.

Symptoms:
Animal lethargic, may hold head high or in an unusual position. There may be weakness in the front or back legs, and there may be a discharge from nose or mouth often accompanied by wheezing.
Probable cause:
Serious bacterial infection of the respiratory tract, possibly pneumonia.
Treatment:
Veterinary attention urgently required. Antibiotic injections are the usual course of action (antibiotics are not normally given orally to tortoises or terrapins due to the prolonged and unpredictable rate of absorption via the gut and unpredictability of resultant blood serum level).

Symptoms:
Carapace(shell)or plastron(bottom of the shell, belly) reveals soft area with possible hemorrhage. There may or may not be an unpleasant smell from the locality. The affected area may spread rapidly.
Probable cause:
Bacterial infection of the tissues which may have its origins in trauma or as a specific disease. Gram-negative bacterial organisms are usually implicated.
Treatment:
The affected area should be cleaned regularly with povidone iodine solution, necrotic tissue gently removed, and the terrapin isolated immediately. A topical antibiotic should be applied (laboratory sensitivity cultures may be advisable). Most cases result from localized traumatic injury, e.g., burns from heaters or abrasions from sharp rocks in the tank etc.

Symptoms:
Lethargy, weakness, possible red flush to limbs or plastron.
Probable cause:
Generalized septicemia (blood poisoning).
Treatment:
Many cases result from traumatic injury, especially if incurred in contaminated water. There may be hepatosis as the liver can rapidly become implicated. Urgent parenteral antibiotic treatment is required together with careful and intensive supportive therapy. Blood tests can be useful in establishing the progress of treatment.

Symptoms:
The carapace is soft and may be distorted. The legs may be weak and the terrapin may have trouble feeding.
Probable cause:
Dietary calcium deficiency, either relative or absolute.
Treatment:
Very severe cases are unlikely to survive. Treatment consists of calcium injections plus revised diet and maintenance under a UV-B emitting light. N.B: Comments on soft-shell symptoms do not apply to Soft-shell Turtles, e.g Tryonix/Apalone species!

Symptoms:
Fresh wound.
Probable cause:
Fighting, abrasion on rocks or other objects.
Treatment:
Remove causal factor from environment. Clean gently using povidone-iodine solution and keep particularly clean until fully healed. Observe carefully for symptoms of secondary infections e.g, septicemia, necrotic dermatitis.

Symptoms:
Swelling or local inflammation on side of head.
Probable cause:
Ear abscess. In turtles, often due to inadequate water hygiene.
Treatment:
Surgical excision by veterinary surgeon under general anaesthetic.

Information for this post provided by: http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/res.html

Box Turtle Care

Box turtles tend to do well either outdoors, or in a large indoor enclosure. Many people do keep them in aquariums. I have my box turtle in a 40 gallon tank. One type of indoor container that actually works quite well though is a large Rubbermaid tub. Rubbermaid tubs and specially built wooden boxes have an advantage over glass aquariums because they have opaque sides. Some box turtles will obsessively try to get through the glass to get to the larger area that they can see on the other side. Others become frightened by any activity in the room and will not relax until the sides are covered.
If you live in the southern states, you should seriously consider an outdoor setup with sun, shade, a variety of weeds, and a small pond of water that is deep enough for swimming. Turtles are happier and healthier under these conditions. Some type of protection is required to prevent raccoons, dogs, or other predators from entering the enclosure. But box turtles kept outside need to be in a warm climate about 70-74 degrees Fahrenheit.
Burrowing into the substrate or hiding under a hollow log or "cave" of some sort makes box turtles feel secure. A variety of logs and caves are sold at many pet stores. You should also make the substrate deep enough for the turtle to burrow completely under. Flat rocks in one area will help keep the turtle's toenails in good shape, although i just use the rock feeding dish as a scratching rock for my turtle.
Box turtles enjoy wading and soaking in water, so provide some sort of pool. They will often defecate in their water container, and that helps keep the enclosure clean, if the water is replaced daily. Box turtles kept indoors should be placed in water to soak every day. Box turtles may be clumsy swimmers, but many of them do seem to enjoy it if a deeper pond is available in an outdoor enclosure.
American Box turtles are omnivores and will enjoy fruits, fungi, veggies, greens, mollusks, worms and insects, like crickets. Many box turtles tend to be very picky eaters, so if you’re turtle doesn’t eat the first thing you put out, try something else. You will just need to find the specific meal your turtle has a taste for.

Red Eared Sliders

Caring for your red eared sliders may be difficult due to the size of the tank. Full tank cleanings are not necessary very often. In fact, in a well maintained tank, you may not need a full tank cleaning for a couple years!

A full tank cleaning should be done:

• Every time the full tank water is replaced
• If any of the turtles/other aquatic life gets diseased (due to a non-dietary cause)
• If you observe too much algae growth in the habitat

When cleaning the habitat, remove all animals, remove all decorations and equipment and empty out the water as completely as possible. Clean all decorations and equipment including any gravel or rocks as best as possible. Wash tank insides with hot water (don't use boiling water as it can crack the glass). Use a sponge or old newspaper to wipe all the inside surfaces and remove any algae. For corners and edges it is recommended to use an old toothbrush.

Do NOT use any detergent!

It's normal to follow up with a mild and safe disinfectant. Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Safe & Easy Aquarium Spray Cleaner is what I recommend to remove any hard water residue on the tank and equipment. NEVER use any containing phenol or phenolic compounds - and always rinse thoroughly before refilling. A 5% vinegar solution works well also.

Make sure to rinse well, and then fit in the cleaned gravel, decorations, and equipment in the tank. Add clean water. You can also add 1 level teaspoon of freshwater aquarium salt for every 4-5 liters of water. This prevents the growth of 'bad' bacteria and helps prevent shell and skin diseases and excessive algae growth in the tank. Try starting your clean water out with Zoo Med's Reptisafe. This water conditioner instantly makes tap water safe for all types of reptiles and amphibians. I would also recommend a waste control product be used in your tank to efficiently reduce solid turtle waste and leftovers from overfeeding.

Run all equipment for at least 30-45 minutes, before returning the animals to the habitat.

Caution: Don't clean any habitat decorations/equipment, in the kitchen or any food storage, preparation or consumption areas. Wash all utensils/containers used to clean the habitat with a mild bleach solution afterwards. Throw the old habitat water in the toilet, outside or in a laundry room sink and not the kitchen sink!

Information from this blog was received from http://www.happyturtlespub.org/habitat/cleanmaint/

Hello, hello!

My name is Emily; I have been a turtle owner for several years now and have loved them since I could remember. When I was a child, I remember owning everything possible from The Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and have continued loving them and all turtles till this day. I have had every cake since I was a child with turtles on it, along with the color purple. If there was a purple turtle in the world I would own it. Turtles and the color purple are my two most favorite things in the world. I have started this blog for a class and will be using it to share information on owning turtles and keeping them happy. I currently own three turtles: 2 red eared sliders and 1 box turtle. With this blog I hope to help many owners in need and with questions on turtles and their lifestyle. For example, my box turtle has a very picky appetite, as do many box turtles. You may have to test out several different foods before you find your turtle’s favorite choice. My box turtle, Cledus, loves fruits and Krakus polish ham and will hardly ever eat vegetables or greens. So when your turtle gets picky, don't give up on them, keep trying different foods. You will soon find something they'll enjoy.